Monday, January 30, 2012

[Skincare] Is your skin thristy?

Date: 30 Jan 2012
Source: ElleUK

Is your skin thristy?
Tools you need to recognise when your skin is thirsty, plus how to repair and replenish it whatever your skin type.

What cause skin dehydration?
First of all it’s important to understand that dehydration is a temporary skin condition; it can affect any skin type, at any time. Whereas dry skin, caused by a lack of oil production, is a skin type and is permanent, although diet, lifestyle and skincare can all help improve it.

Your body contains 80% water, but struggles to retain it on the skin’s surface; a healthy, efficient epidermis should hold 13.5% of water, yet if it loses just 3.5% of that then it becomes dehydrated.

Una Brennan, facialist for Skinceuticals, suggests, ‘If the air is moist then the moisture in your skin is more likely to stay put than be sucked out of your skin into the atmosphere, so use a humidifier, especially during cold winter months when the skin is exposed to central heating. And if you have electric heaters, which are a key culprit, always pop a bowl of water beneath them to ensure there is still moisture in the room.’

Your skincare regime can also cause problems. ‘Chronic dehydration can be caused by skin damage from cosmetics: eg. using too harsh or too frequent skin treatments like glycolic acid, hydrogen peroxide, retinoic acid and benzoyl peroxide for example. These substances alter the transfer of moisture within the skin to the epidermis. Skin takes on a withered look and hydration is difficult. Daily or very frequent scrubbing of the skin can also break down cell bonding in the skin reducing its ability to hold water and placing the capilliaries of the skin at risk,’ explains Una Brennan. So go gently with your skincare regime.

Does drinking water make a difference?
From experts the answer is a resounding no. Dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting says ‘Drinking water to rehydrate dry skin is a bit like sitting in the bath and expecting it to quench your thirst.’ While Dr Murad says, ‘There is little scientific evidence; for most people, more water just means more trips to the bathroom. Not only is this a waste of time, and water, but the constant flushing of water through your body can mean a loss of vital minerals as well.

We’re not saying, however, that you shouldn’t be drinking water – it’s excellent for your health and will keep your internal body parts functioning efficiently, but the results of guzzling back your eight glasses a day won’t make a difference to your complexion.

So what will?

Eat your way to hydrate skin.
Your skincare regime will make the utmost difference to your skin’s health and appearance; however the right diet is important to keep your skin functioning at its best. You need to look to foods ‘which help provide essential nutrients, like omega-3 fatty acids, which are necessary to enable the skin to manufacture key elements that help it hold on to water and stay hydrated,’ says Dr Sam Bunting.

Emma Schulz adds that, ‘A well balanced diet and plenty of sleep will help to reduce dehydration’. We know that as we sleep skin regenerates itself and cell turnover (the ridding of dead skin cells) is at its most productive. ‘A lot of what we eat effects the skin also, therefore avoid drinking alcohol, caffeine or eating salty foods as these cause puffing, swelling, and dehydrate your skin,’ adds Emma. Dr Brandt agrees, ‘As soon as you cut down on sugar you’ll see an improvement in your skin,’ he says.

Dr Murad, who champions the idea of eating your water, recommends you replace one of your eight glasses of water with a serving of raw fruits or vegetables. ‘Eating foods that are rich in structured water, especially raw fruits and vegetables, will not only help your body hold onto water longer, you’ll get the added boost of important antioxidants, fibre and other nutrients.’

Supplements.
You should be getting all the nutrients you need for your skin from a well-rounded diet, but we all go through phases where our food intake leaves a lot to be desired. If you’re going through an unhealthy phase make sure you supplement your diet with a couple of skin hydrating and conditioning supplements.

Oily fish is a must for keeping your complexion looking its best – it’s anti-inflammatory and ensures your skin is working optimally. ‘Oily Fish will make your skin glow and give you the healthiest skin and hair ever. The flesh of fish – especially salmon contains DMAE, a powerful antioxidant. This chemical stimulates nerve function and the muscles to contact and tighten under the skin,’ says Dr Perricone.


Oily skin that's dehydrated.

Top Tip:  ‘Many women with oily and/or combination skin are afraid to use any kind of moisturiser, fearful that they might clog their pores and intensify their tendency toward shine. Don’t starve your skin of hydration, though, you still need to use a lightweight moisturiser,’ says Dr Brandt.

Essential Skincare: To cleanse, morning and night use Avene Cleanance Soapless Gel Cleanser, £8.25 (boots.com), it removes make-up and dirt but won’t disrupt skin’s healthy pH balance.
Follow with Dr Brandt Lineless Infinite Moisture, £56 (spacenk.co.uk), a lightweight lotion that contains Kola Nut (to stimulate the cells), Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin E to hydrate and nourish. It’s not so heavy that it will clog pores or too light that it will cause your skin to overproduce sebum – this should be perfectly balancing.
At night use Clinique’s new Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator (Type 2 Dry Combination), £32 (launches 1 January), which strengthens and repairs the skin’s moisture barrier preventing water loss.
If skin starts to feel dry or oily during the day, spritz with Benefit’s Ultra Radiance Facial Re-Hydrating Mist, £19.50 (benefitcosmetics.co.uk), with sodium hyaluronate. This mist attracts water into the skin.

Body product: Strip the skin of oil and it will go into overdrive to produce more. Meet the problem with an oil-based body lotion like Dove Pro Age Nourishment Body Cream Oil, £5.99 (boots.com).
According to De Vany, living as we were built to live - with intermittent fasting, variety in food sources and varying activity levels - has been found to eradicate allergies, enhance resistance to stress, and, as well as losing weight, increase the body's repair mechanisms, proving a powerful way to slow aging.

Related post: The Cavewoman diet


Karl's MEMO: Diet, Lifestyle and Skincare

1/ Skincare regime: Use products that keeps skin healthy, and prevent it from being dehydrated.
Products for oily skin: Clinique’s new Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator
2/ Eat to hydrate skin:
- Raw fruits and vegetable: for better water supplying and water storing on skin
- Get essential nutrient: Omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins E, A, B, C, ...
Avoid: Alcohol, Caffeine, salty foods, sugar.
3/ Keep a moisturized environment around you.
Keep a bow of water if you stay in a closed space with air conditioner.
4/ Massage and exercises

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